How Naomi Campbell proved all her haters unsuitable – together with me

In 1999, I used to be despatched to interview Naomi Campbell. Friendly, she was not. In reality, 24 years on, she stays one of the vital troublesome folks I’ve ever interviewed. I now know why.

Even although I labored in vogue for 20 years, it took the latest documentary The Super Models for me to grasp the distinctive challenges Campbell has confronted. This is as a result of I’m a naive white girl. As anybody who has watched the four-part collection will attest, regardless of all occupying the very best echelons of modelling, it transpires that Cindy, Christy, Linda and Naomi have been by no means really equal. Some are richer. Some are more healthy. Some discovered love. And one needed to cope with a lifetime of systemic racism.

Life doesn’t deal all of us the identical hand, even when, on the face of it, we’re equally deserving. No matter that you’re one of many world’s high fashions: generally, life nonetheless provides you lemons. And that’s when you’re confronted with a selection – to let it bitter you, or to make lemonade.

Beyoncé could have made an album about this, however Naomi Campbell has made it the defining precept of her whole profession. Her 40-year reign on the high of her occupation reminds us that there are supermodels, and there are SUPER fashions. Even Cindy, Christy and Linda would most likely admit that out of the 4 of them, their pal is most deserving of the title. For not solely has Campbell, 53, carved out a stellar profession as a mannequin: she’s additionally an activist and philanthropist, an advocate for social change who hasn’t simply walked the stroll (and what a stroll), however has put within the time and finished the arduous work.

As one of many first Black fashions to realize supermodel standing, Campbell broke obstacles and opened doorways for fashions of color, altering perceptions of magnificence within the vogue trade and paving the best way for extra range and illustration. It is way from good now, however few would argue that she was a pioneer. Ever since being found as a schoolgirl in Covent Garden, London, on the age of 15, Campbell has been altering the sport, regardless of stated recreation being stacked in opposition to her. Aged 17, she grew to become the primary Black mannequin to be on the quilt of British Vogue since 1966. Aged 27, she grew to become the primary Black mannequin to open a Prada present (one of many present season’s greatest badges of honour). Aged 29, years after her white friends, she signed her first contract with a cosmetics firm – a division of Wella – to launch a scent. How previous was Campbell when she scored her first magnificence contract? Forty-eight.

Despite being essentially the most well-known Black mannequin of her time, Campbell by no means earned the identical cash as her friends, as a result of these profitable magnificence contracts – those that carry within the critical cash – weren’t given to her. “There is prejudice,” she admitted in 1997. “This business is about selling, and blonde, blue-eyed girls are what sells.” In 2013, she joined with fellow Black fashions to type an advocacy group, Diversity Coalition, penning an open letter to the governing our bodies of world vogue weeks to name out high-profile designers who used only one or no fashions of color in that season’s reveals and calling it a “racist act”. Even although it may have jeopardised her profession to take action, she spoke up, within the hope that these arising behind her wouldn’t must endure the identical prejudices.

While it might be an egregious type of whitewashing to gloss over the disadvantages Campbell has confronted, it might be simply as a lot of a disservice to color her as a sufferer. For she will not be a sufferer: she is an absolute queen. For each lemon lobbed her manner, she’s countered with a dose of sugar, making lemonade the place much less resilient girls would have crumbled. She is the queen of turning negatives into positives: consider her tumble on the Vivienne Westwood present in 1993, when she fell off her nine-inch platforms and landed in a match of giggles. Instagram was but to exist, however the incident nonetheless went “viral”, with different designers begging her to faux a fall of their reveals, to garner the identical publicity.

When social media did come to exist, Campbell swiftly proved she was a pure. While some fashions proved themselves to be solely marginally much less vapid than anticipated, Campbell’s deadpan humour was a scrumptious shock. Who can overlook 2019’s “Airport Routine”, a YouTube video as seminal as “Charlie Bit My Finger”? ‘I do not care what people think of me,” she says, donning disposable gloves and swabbing down her tray table with a Dettol wipe. In the supermodel documentary, she pokes fun at herself again, this time when experiencing a hot flush during a fashion shoot. “Lord!” she says, pacing agitatedly while looking unfeasibly more gorgeous than most women in the throes of a sweat. “One minute I’m positive, the subsequent I’m a furnace. Why do males not get menopause?”

Clearly, Naomi isn’t good. She was convicted of assault on 4 events between 1998 and 2009, main her to take anger administration remedy. She has battled addictions to alcohol and cocaine. Last month, she confronted a backlash for her collaboration with the quick vogue large Pretty Little Thing, with critics mentioning that as a lady of color, she needs to be particularly delicate to the plight of low-paid garment staff in a manner that Molly Mae Hague, presumably, shouldn’t. “Do they say anything when other caucasian models have worked for fast fashion brands?” Campbell clapped again in an interview. “They’ve not said a word. So why are they coming for me?”

However typically they arrive for her, Campbell will all the time roll with the punches, choose herself again up once more, and maintain combating. She is a survivor: a south London lady finished good, a lady who has needed to work more durable than a lot of her friends merely to get to the identical place, but has nonetheless surpassed them. Of all of the supermodels, solely Naomi is recognised all around the world, from Gravesend to Ghana. As her pal and mentor, Edward Enninful, as soon as stated, “Naomi represents what is possible.”

The world doesn’t want one other well-known feminine white position mannequin. But it unquestionably wants extra Black ones. This is why the V&A’s forthcoming exhibition – the primary ever to be devoted to a solo mannequin – is such welcome information. Launching in June 2024, along with displaying 100 curated outfits Campbell has worn all through her modelling years (a purpose alone to go to) the exhibition may also cowl her philanthropic work and activism. For Naomi is greater than vogue. She is historical past: Black historical past, a topic too typically seen by means of a white lens, or not documented as totally appropriately. Above all, she is the last word embodiment of the saying “be the thing you wish to see”, a task mannequin for any lady who aspires to be robust and profitable.

Now a mom to 2 kids of her personal, at 53, Naomi Campbell is on the high of her recreation. That she needed to battle so arduous to get there little question makes her achievement really feel all of the sweeter. She fought so the daughters of others wouldn’t must. That’s what queens do.

V&A exhibition ‘NAOMI’ will run from 22 June 2024 to six April 2025