Last: Wines from the boutique side

Article content

Over the last couple of months, I have been exploring Calgary’s specialty wine shops, highlighting some of the unique finds synonymous with our market. A couple of weeks ago I stopped by Richmond Hill Wines, one of a small group of stores that represented the first tier of privatization that began in 1985 when the Wine Cellar opened its doors in Edmonton. It was effectively an experiment for the Alberta government, allowing another small handful of stores to open between 1985 and 1990 (when Richmond Hill opened). One of the advantages the original group had was that they were allowed to operate as both importer and retailer, an allowance that was dropped when the market fully privatized in 1993.

As a concession to the original stores, the government offered a grandfather-clause option of retaining their import licences but on the condition they stick solely to wine. To date, only three of the original shops that still exist hold this licence (The Wine Cellar Edmonton, Banff Wine Store and Richmond Hill).

Article content

Here are a few wines to try from Richmond Hill, look for more unique finds over the next few months.

Little Engine Chardonnay 2018 – $33

Situated on Naramata Road just outside of Penticton, this relative newcomer purchased its first vineyard in 2011 and now produces an array of solid Okanagan wines. The chardonnay shows a fair bit of new oak when first opened but with a bit of air, it became a little more integrated with the fruit. It offers a big core of caramelized pear with some vanilla and spice and a good level of acidity to tie it all together. It would go nicely with seared scallops or roast chicken.

Best’s Great Western Bin No 1 Shiraz 2017 – $36

This historical winery dates back to 1866 when Henry Best planted 30 hectares of vineyards outside the town of Great Western, 230 kilometres west of Melbourne (Australia). The Thomson family became involved in the early 1900s and, over time, acquired full ownership of the property, despite some setbacks such as the bank foreclosing during the Depression. After several generations and countless accolades, the Thomson family soldiers on, producing a really solid range of wines. The Bin No 1 shiraz is more akin to the Rhone style, which is to say it is not sweet, focusing more on garrigues, black licorice, plums and spice, with some fleshy tannins and acidity to tie it all together. I had it with some ribeye steaks and it was just about perfect.

Quinta da Pedra Escrita Douro Red 2017 – $37

Article content

Portugal’s Douro Valley is best known for port wine but over the last 30 years or so it has gained a reputation for producing big, structured red wines from the same hearty red varietals that find their way into port. In this case, a blend of Touriga Nacional, jaen, mencia and souzao grapes are skillfully blended to deliver a serious bottle of red wine capable of aging thanks to its abundance of fruit, tannin and acidity. Its inky colour is the first indication that this is not going to be a light wine, and it follows up with a big core of black fruit and anise, a red meat partner if ever there was one. I served it with lamb chops after decanting it for an hour or so, a really great match from a very impressive red wine. In my mind, Portugal just keeps going from strength to strength, and this is a delicious case in point.

St. Prefert Clos Beatus Cotes du Rhone 2019- $36

Here is a classically styled Cotes du Rhone made predominately from grenache (85 per cent) and cinsault, from an estate that has been around since 1920. Winemaker Isabel Ferrando is forging an array of wines (organically farmed) that are big on terroir, with the Cotes du Rhone showing classic notes of sagebrush, plums, dates and a subtle chocolate malt note. It’s a young Rhone wine so decanting wouldn’t hurt, game meat or lamb would be about right.

La Torre Brunello do Montalcino 2015-$60

Tuscany is one of my all-time favourite wine destinations, and the wines from the hilltop town of Montalcino offer up what many, myself included, regard as the pinnacle for the sangiovese grape (Brunello is a distinct clone of sangiovese). By Italian standards this is a new winery, established in 1976, but the wines are first-rate, especially for the price. Many Brunellos crest the $100 mark and I would say that this one holds its own with some much pricier examples. It’s getting into a nice window of drinkability and will continue to improve over the next five years or so. It shows that classic smoky cherry core I associate with Brunello, with some licorice, cigar box and ripe tannins, all in all a truly memorable bottle of wine for those special occasions. Highly recommended.

Geoff Last is a long-time Calgary wine merchant, writer, broadcaster and food and wine instructor and a fellow with the Society of Professional Wine Writers based in Napa Valley.